zil
06-12-2004, 05:46 PM
Everyone wants good recipes.. so me being the nice person that i am, have scoured the internet finding the best recipes for ink out there.. most of these are stolen, i will mention the name of the person who i stole it from from. If you want your recipe removed, just email me and i will be happy to take it out..
And yes i am very aware that there is another thread on ink, but instead of going throw page after page of shit trying to find a good recipe, wouldnt this be easier?
-------------------------
INK VS. PAINT
There's two main things you can use as a base for your recipe: inks/dyes, or bucket paint. Ink and bucket paint do not mix with each other.
If you're into getting custom colors that no one else has, get yourself some small containers of bucket paint. Two recommended brands are Rustoleum and One-Shot. While most people have heard of Rusto and know of it for its thickness, One Shot is less well known but has a lot of nice colors and comes out super glossy or metallic. Sign painters use it for their work; it's tough shit and it contains lead, so be careful. Bucket paint is not as permanent as a lot of inks, and really does not stain too well at all, but it usually will not weather away quickly and is still slightly hard to buff. Make sure you get oil-based. You can't put paint in most markers, so it's recommended that you put it in a mop, preferably a Kiwi. If you want more drips, be sure to thin out the paint with mineral spirits. Do NOT thin with xylene if your mop is plastic, as xylene eats plastic away.
Onto the inks. If you're into shit that stains hard, love the colors black and/or violet, and want your shit to last long and sink deep into the surface, this is the shit for you. Pretty much every ink is alcohol based, as is leather dye. Marsh ink is about the most well known in the US. In my experiences, it's not that much different from Pilot ink, though a little more expensive and slightly harder to buff (but it's not going to make much of a difference). Anyways, ink looks good on a wall, flows well through the marker, and is relatively hard to buff, but usually won't stain hard or leave a ghost. Now, on to leather dye. This is the shit when it comes to nice colors, leaving a nasty stain, and being some of the hardest shit to buff. So why don't you just use leather dye as ink and leave out the Marsh/Pilot ink? Well, truth is, it looks like fucking water color paint when applied to a wall, and it doesn't flow as well. You gotta mix it with ink. Some popular brands are Griffin, which you can find at Walgreens, and Fiebing's. The hardest staining colors made by Fiebing's are violet and red. Be very careful when handling this shit - if it drips anywhere in the house, it's damn hard to clean off. Now on to brake fluid. Why do people use brake fluid in there recipes ? Brake fluid is corrossive and eats through paint and into the wall, kind of like what etch does to glass, except not as permanent. Anyways, it's good stuff. You can find it at Walgreens, also. Make sure you get DOT3 and don't add too much into your recipe.
Now, the recipes.
NUMBER ONE : HARD STAINING HOME MADE INK
Get a jar. Put in either Pilot ink or Marsh as your base, and add some Griffin, less than or equal to the amount of Pilot. Now get some Fiebing's leather dye, and add it to the batch, preferably red or purple, as they stain the hardest. Next, get some brake fluid, and give a generous amount - not too little, but definitely not too much as it will affect the flow. Mix that shit around. You can also try boiling them together and then using a thinner, as they'll thicken when heated. Personally, I've never tried heating / boiling any of my inks. If you want, you can try adding Gentian Violet or Methylene Blue (the additive[s]).
Next, put it in your marker. Let's pretend you have a Pilot, since they're the easiest to refill and one of the best markers around. Simply unscrew the top, and drop some ink in there until it's slightly overflowing above the cotton. Now, screw the top back on, open the marker and let the ink drop through the nib and land back into the jar. This will get the nib nice and juicey. You can also put this into a mop. This shit is going to stain hard and leave a ghost once its buffed, so the only way to really get rid of it is paint over it (and certain things just don't get painted over, signs for instance).
NUMBER TWO : HOME MADE KRINK
This ones for homemade Krink. Krink is a recipe made by KR from New York ; you can buy his shit off http://www.fourthehardway.com or get more info at http://www.krink.com . He charges 15 bucks ; if you want to know the exact proportions to the recipe, buy some and let the ingrediants settle over time and seperate. Anyways, this is some of the easiest shit to make yourself at home. First, get some Rusto Aluminum paint. Its nice and silver. Next get some Paint thinner. Mix it to whatever proportion you want - the more thinner, the more drippy. You can also add a little bit of brake fluid, for staining power, and aluminum dust for shines.
CHAPSTICK MARKER RECIPE
This is a recipe I typed awhile back in the Tools of the Trade thread.
WHAT YOU WILL NEED:
- Chapstick container.
- Pilot ink, or whatever you prefer.
- A candle and matches.
- A felt chalk board eraser.
- An eyedropper (comes with Pilot ink).
1. Get the chapstick container, empty out the chapstick and clean out the container.
2. Melt some wax into it from the candle, so that the bottom is sealed and won't leak any ink.
3. Put in your ink of choice with the eyedropper. i used pilot because it's cheap and flows fine.
3. Get the felt eraser. Rip off one of the strips. cut it about 1/4. Shove that bit into the container, just make sure you can get the cap back on.
4. Finally, get the eyedropper back out and drip some ink onto the nib until it becomes juicy. After that you're ready to go. When the nib gets dry, rejuice it with the eye dropper and ink.
------------The above section stolen from rubbish heap of 12ozprophet.. ------------
computer toner with alchahol. pretty dirty
or soak a stack of carbon paper in 100% alchahol thicken with cigarette ash
---------- The above stolen from NA$H of 12oz.. -----------
Okay, I am going to settle this carbon ink shit. I've done it. It works. It works very well, and stains very hard.
But... you need the right kind of carbon paper. It has to be PURPLE. Not black. PURPLE. The ink comes out this sick purple, but I recommend this:
CARBON INK
70-90% Isopryl Alcohol w/ torn up pieces of carbon paper in a jar, allowed to sit for a week, then liquid is poured off into w/e.
(A WARNING: THIS INK EVAPORATES REALLY FAST. ALWAYS KEEP IT CLOSED... IV'E LOST WHOLE BATCHES BEFORE IN LESS THAN A MINUTE)
Anyways, Mix these:
Carbon Paper Ink - Stains bluish, the additive
Alcohol based ink (Pilot, Montana ink, etc) - Permanent, the base
Leather Dye (Griffin Black, Kiwi Leather Dye)- stains dark- additive
A bit of Break Fluid (DOT 3 only)- Stains yellowish/brownish, corrosive..
I think this would work in most markers, especially in eraser nibbed, or socks.
--------- the above stolen from AevOne718 of 12oz ----------
ok heres my secret weapon:
any 3 high quality inks, (marsh, griff, pilot, i like city wide)
leather dye, (dark red is nice)
Pearl Ex, (this is the flashy part of the mix)
acetone, (or any thinner)
ok, take your inks, mix em up in a pot you don't care about and put over low-med heat. stir until it gets just a little thick, stop & remove from heat. now your 3 inks have formed one "super ink", but your not nearly done. now mix in your leather dye and stir. if your mixture is still to thick, thin it up with some acetone, the thinner the drippier, (obviously). now take your Pearl Ex, (this can be found in most to all arts and crafts stores. its used to add sparkle to paint or really anything. the particles are about 10 microns which is plenty small enough to flow through any marker nib. it comes an a variety of colors and is about 5 bucks a jar. ), and dump in a bunch and stir. the more of it you add the more sparkle your tags will have, it will also tint your ink a little depending on the color. if you put in a lot and your stuff gets thick again, use more thinner.it makes buffing quite a pain in the ass and makes your handstyles sparkle like hell. i love it. oh, by the way, if anyone is interested, you can obtain methelyne blue at most pet stores, its used commenly in fish tanks.
--------- the above stolen from Ira Sanky of 12oz ---------
Okay, as I promised, I did a buff test today.
Materials Used:
+ An old white t-shirt for the rag
+ Goof Off cleaner (made to buff inks and spilled paint)
+ Stock ink out of a Kiwi Mop
+ Griffin
+ Pilot Ink
+ OTR Silver (alcohol based)
+ Uni Paint Silver (oil based)
+ white Meanstreak
+ red Sakura Streak
+ Straight liquid Gentian Violet (which is like, 2% gentian violet powder and the rest water and alcohol)
+ Violet Garvey.
+ A dumpster.
1st Buff: The Stock Kiwi Ink
This shit was the easiest to buff, left no ghost, and didn't stain at all. Definitely the weakest ink of the batch.
2nd Buff: OTR (alcohol based) Silver as compared to Uni Paint (oil based) Silver
The OTR Shit was pretty easy to buff; a little stronger than the Stock Kiwi Ink, but nonetheless it took no effort to remove it and it didn't leave any ghost. The Uni Paint Silver was a little stronger and harder to buff; it would probably last longer in the weather. It didn't stain or leave a ghost either, but it was decent.
3rd Buff: White Meanstreak as compared to Red Sakura Streak
I was kind of surprised, the red Sakura was easier to buff than the white Meanstreak. Actually, I never got the Meanstreak completely off, but the Sakura took a little effort and was harder to buff than the Uni Paint Silver.
4th Buff: Pilot Ink
This shit left no ghost, didn't stain much at all, but it did smear a little when I buffed it. I'd say it was about as strong as the Uni Paint Silver, maybe a little stronger. Decent shit.
5th Buff: Liquid Gentian Violet
This shit looks purple and leaves a green shine to it. Now, bear in mind it contains only 2 percent of the actual Gentian Violet; that said, it was easy to buff but smeared everywhere. Hopefully, I can obtain some regular Gentian Violet powder soon.
6th Buff: Violet Garvey and Black Griffin
These two were the hardest to buff, and the best staining. The Griffin was stronger than any of the previous inks, and left a semi light, semi dark ghost. Definitely a quality ink/dye, but not as good as... Violet Garvey. Now I was surprised at how hard this thing was to buff. It was definitely the strongest ink, and stained the hardest. The ghost it left was a deep, dark purple, and it didn't even look like someone tried to buff it. I give Garvey an A+, easily the best shit I've come across since Fiebing's.
I encourage any of you reading to go and do buff tests for yourself.
------------- the above stolen from rubbish heap of 12oz ----------------
INK ADDITIVES:
Dot 3 brake fluid.. a couple drops eats into paint and leaves a ghost
Fish oil, a couple capsules... leaves a deeper ghost then brake fluid
Methy. blue, nice blue stain. dont get the liquid, powder only..
Leather dyes for stain: griffin, fiebings, etc
Genitian Violet, good purple dye, hard to find, get powder only.. works well in garvey, flowpen, nero and pretty much any purple ink..
DONTS:
Do not use latex paint, and if thats all you have access to, thin with water only.
Do not mix alcohol or water with oil based paint..
Do not put anything with xylene in a plastic marker or mop
Do not put alot of brake fluid in your ink unless you want crap
Do not mix ink with paint.
DO NOT USE CHINA OR INDIA INK. IT IS LIKE DIRTY FREAKING WATER.
DOS:
Do wear gloves when mixing brake fluid or paint thinner..
Do use paint thinner with oil based paint.
STOCK INKS:
Garvey stains metal so freaking awesome.. also stains transit panels
Nero stains plastic good, stains transit, not great on metals..
Marsh is a little bit better than pilot, its just begging to be modified.
Pilot is only good for pilot refills cuz its so damn expensive.. good basic ink
Flowpen, mix with other things and can be rather good.
Hard to buff is overrated and over priced. its just not hard to buff.
==== EDIT: MORE RECIPES ADDED ====
get kiwi edge dressing, replace the foam nib with a better one..
pour kiwi into bowl
get some minwax wood stain, put in about 3-4 teaspoons of that.. (stains good)
put 2-3 fish oil vitamin things in it, or if u dont have fish oil, use 3in1 or other multipurpose oil (stain)
throw in 4 teaspoons of laquer thinner (cant paint over it)
thinken it up by stirring in some wood glue...
pour back into mop
--------------- above stolen from me -----------------
red,black,green,blue biro ink
silvo polisher
rust proof paint
printing ink
black it for iron
and brake fluid
ohh yeah an some shoe polish
----------- above stolen from vegimite on toast --------------------
And yes i am very aware that there is another thread on ink, but instead of going throw page after page of shit trying to find a good recipe, wouldnt this be easier?
-------------------------
INK VS. PAINT
There's two main things you can use as a base for your recipe: inks/dyes, or bucket paint. Ink and bucket paint do not mix with each other.
If you're into getting custom colors that no one else has, get yourself some small containers of bucket paint. Two recommended brands are Rustoleum and One-Shot. While most people have heard of Rusto and know of it for its thickness, One Shot is less well known but has a lot of nice colors and comes out super glossy or metallic. Sign painters use it for their work; it's tough shit and it contains lead, so be careful. Bucket paint is not as permanent as a lot of inks, and really does not stain too well at all, but it usually will not weather away quickly and is still slightly hard to buff. Make sure you get oil-based. You can't put paint in most markers, so it's recommended that you put it in a mop, preferably a Kiwi. If you want more drips, be sure to thin out the paint with mineral spirits. Do NOT thin with xylene if your mop is plastic, as xylene eats plastic away.
Onto the inks. If you're into shit that stains hard, love the colors black and/or violet, and want your shit to last long and sink deep into the surface, this is the shit for you. Pretty much every ink is alcohol based, as is leather dye. Marsh ink is about the most well known in the US. In my experiences, it's not that much different from Pilot ink, though a little more expensive and slightly harder to buff (but it's not going to make much of a difference). Anyways, ink looks good on a wall, flows well through the marker, and is relatively hard to buff, but usually won't stain hard or leave a ghost. Now, on to leather dye. This is the shit when it comes to nice colors, leaving a nasty stain, and being some of the hardest shit to buff. So why don't you just use leather dye as ink and leave out the Marsh/Pilot ink? Well, truth is, it looks like fucking water color paint when applied to a wall, and it doesn't flow as well. You gotta mix it with ink. Some popular brands are Griffin, which you can find at Walgreens, and Fiebing's. The hardest staining colors made by Fiebing's are violet and red. Be very careful when handling this shit - if it drips anywhere in the house, it's damn hard to clean off. Now on to brake fluid. Why do people use brake fluid in there recipes ? Brake fluid is corrossive and eats through paint and into the wall, kind of like what etch does to glass, except not as permanent. Anyways, it's good stuff. You can find it at Walgreens, also. Make sure you get DOT3 and don't add too much into your recipe.
Now, the recipes.
NUMBER ONE : HARD STAINING HOME MADE INK
Get a jar. Put in either Pilot ink or Marsh as your base, and add some Griffin, less than or equal to the amount of Pilot. Now get some Fiebing's leather dye, and add it to the batch, preferably red or purple, as they stain the hardest. Next, get some brake fluid, and give a generous amount - not too little, but definitely not too much as it will affect the flow. Mix that shit around. You can also try boiling them together and then using a thinner, as they'll thicken when heated. Personally, I've never tried heating / boiling any of my inks. If you want, you can try adding Gentian Violet or Methylene Blue (the additive[s]).
Next, put it in your marker. Let's pretend you have a Pilot, since they're the easiest to refill and one of the best markers around. Simply unscrew the top, and drop some ink in there until it's slightly overflowing above the cotton. Now, screw the top back on, open the marker and let the ink drop through the nib and land back into the jar. This will get the nib nice and juicey. You can also put this into a mop. This shit is going to stain hard and leave a ghost once its buffed, so the only way to really get rid of it is paint over it (and certain things just don't get painted over, signs for instance).
NUMBER TWO : HOME MADE KRINK
This ones for homemade Krink. Krink is a recipe made by KR from New York ; you can buy his shit off http://www.fourthehardway.com or get more info at http://www.krink.com . He charges 15 bucks ; if you want to know the exact proportions to the recipe, buy some and let the ingrediants settle over time and seperate. Anyways, this is some of the easiest shit to make yourself at home. First, get some Rusto Aluminum paint. Its nice and silver. Next get some Paint thinner. Mix it to whatever proportion you want - the more thinner, the more drippy. You can also add a little bit of brake fluid, for staining power, and aluminum dust for shines.
CHAPSTICK MARKER RECIPE
This is a recipe I typed awhile back in the Tools of the Trade thread.
WHAT YOU WILL NEED:
- Chapstick container.
- Pilot ink, or whatever you prefer.
- A candle and matches.
- A felt chalk board eraser.
- An eyedropper (comes with Pilot ink).
1. Get the chapstick container, empty out the chapstick and clean out the container.
2. Melt some wax into it from the candle, so that the bottom is sealed and won't leak any ink.
3. Put in your ink of choice with the eyedropper. i used pilot because it's cheap and flows fine.
3. Get the felt eraser. Rip off one of the strips. cut it about 1/4. Shove that bit into the container, just make sure you can get the cap back on.
4. Finally, get the eyedropper back out and drip some ink onto the nib until it becomes juicy. After that you're ready to go. When the nib gets dry, rejuice it with the eye dropper and ink.
------------The above section stolen from rubbish heap of 12ozprophet.. ------------
computer toner with alchahol. pretty dirty
or soak a stack of carbon paper in 100% alchahol thicken with cigarette ash
---------- The above stolen from NA$H of 12oz.. -----------
Okay, I am going to settle this carbon ink shit. I've done it. It works. It works very well, and stains very hard.
But... you need the right kind of carbon paper. It has to be PURPLE. Not black. PURPLE. The ink comes out this sick purple, but I recommend this:
CARBON INK
70-90% Isopryl Alcohol w/ torn up pieces of carbon paper in a jar, allowed to sit for a week, then liquid is poured off into w/e.
(A WARNING: THIS INK EVAPORATES REALLY FAST. ALWAYS KEEP IT CLOSED... IV'E LOST WHOLE BATCHES BEFORE IN LESS THAN A MINUTE)
Anyways, Mix these:
Carbon Paper Ink - Stains bluish, the additive
Alcohol based ink (Pilot, Montana ink, etc) - Permanent, the base
Leather Dye (Griffin Black, Kiwi Leather Dye)- stains dark- additive
A bit of Break Fluid (DOT 3 only)- Stains yellowish/brownish, corrosive..
I think this would work in most markers, especially in eraser nibbed, or socks.
--------- the above stolen from AevOne718 of 12oz ----------
ok heres my secret weapon:
any 3 high quality inks, (marsh, griff, pilot, i like city wide)
leather dye, (dark red is nice)
Pearl Ex, (this is the flashy part of the mix)
acetone, (or any thinner)
ok, take your inks, mix em up in a pot you don't care about and put over low-med heat. stir until it gets just a little thick, stop & remove from heat. now your 3 inks have formed one "super ink", but your not nearly done. now mix in your leather dye and stir. if your mixture is still to thick, thin it up with some acetone, the thinner the drippier, (obviously). now take your Pearl Ex, (this can be found in most to all arts and crafts stores. its used to add sparkle to paint or really anything. the particles are about 10 microns which is plenty small enough to flow through any marker nib. it comes an a variety of colors and is about 5 bucks a jar. ), and dump in a bunch and stir. the more of it you add the more sparkle your tags will have, it will also tint your ink a little depending on the color. if you put in a lot and your stuff gets thick again, use more thinner.it makes buffing quite a pain in the ass and makes your handstyles sparkle like hell. i love it. oh, by the way, if anyone is interested, you can obtain methelyne blue at most pet stores, its used commenly in fish tanks.
--------- the above stolen from Ira Sanky of 12oz ---------
Okay, as I promised, I did a buff test today.
Materials Used:
+ An old white t-shirt for the rag
+ Goof Off cleaner (made to buff inks and spilled paint)
+ Stock ink out of a Kiwi Mop
+ Griffin
+ Pilot Ink
+ OTR Silver (alcohol based)
+ Uni Paint Silver (oil based)
+ white Meanstreak
+ red Sakura Streak
+ Straight liquid Gentian Violet (which is like, 2% gentian violet powder and the rest water and alcohol)
+ Violet Garvey.
+ A dumpster.
1st Buff: The Stock Kiwi Ink
This shit was the easiest to buff, left no ghost, and didn't stain at all. Definitely the weakest ink of the batch.
2nd Buff: OTR (alcohol based) Silver as compared to Uni Paint (oil based) Silver
The OTR Shit was pretty easy to buff; a little stronger than the Stock Kiwi Ink, but nonetheless it took no effort to remove it and it didn't leave any ghost. The Uni Paint Silver was a little stronger and harder to buff; it would probably last longer in the weather. It didn't stain or leave a ghost either, but it was decent.
3rd Buff: White Meanstreak as compared to Red Sakura Streak
I was kind of surprised, the red Sakura was easier to buff than the white Meanstreak. Actually, I never got the Meanstreak completely off, but the Sakura took a little effort and was harder to buff than the Uni Paint Silver.
4th Buff: Pilot Ink
This shit left no ghost, didn't stain much at all, but it did smear a little when I buffed it. I'd say it was about as strong as the Uni Paint Silver, maybe a little stronger. Decent shit.
5th Buff: Liquid Gentian Violet
This shit looks purple and leaves a green shine to it. Now, bear in mind it contains only 2 percent of the actual Gentian Violet; that said, it was easy to buff but smeared everywhere. Hopefully, I can obtain some regular Gentian Violet powder soon.
6th Buff: Violet Garvey and Black Griffin
These two were the hardest to buff, and the best staining. The Griffin was stronger than any of the previous inks, and left a semi light, semi dark ghost. Definitely a quality ink/dye, but not as good as... Violet Garvey. Now I was surprised at how hard this thing was to buff. It was definitely the strongest ink, and stained the hardest. The ghost it left was a deep, dark purple, and it didn't even look like someone tried to buff it. I give Garvey an A+, easily the best shit I've come across since Fiebing's.
I encourage any of you reading to go and do buff tests for yourself.
------------- the above stolen from rubbish heap of 12oz ----------------
INK ADDITIVES:
Dot 3 brake fluid.. a couple drops eats into paint and leaves a ghost
Fish oil, a couple capsules... leaves a deeper ghost then brake fluid
Methy. blue, nice blue stain. dont get the liquid, powder only..
Leather dyes for stain: griffin, fiebings, etc
Genitian Violet, good purple dye, hard to find, get powder only.. works well in garvey, flowpen, nero and pretty much any purple ink..
DONTS:
Do not use latex paint, and if thats all you have access to, thin with water only.
Do not mix alcohol or water with oil based paint..
Do not put anything with xylene in a plastic marker or mop
Do not put alot of brake fluid in your ink unless you want crap
Do not mix ink with paint.
DO NOT USE CHINA OR INDIA INK. IT IS LIKE DIRTY FREAKING WATER.
DOS:
Do wear gloves when mixing brake fluid or paint thinner..
Do use paint thinner with oil based paint.
STOCK INKS:
Garvey stains metal so freaking awesome.. also stains transit panels
Nero stains plastic good, stains transit, not great on metals..
Marsh is a little bit better than pilot, its just begging to be modified.
Pilot is only good for pilot refills cuz its so damn expensive.. good basic ink
Flowpen, mix with other things and can be rather good.
Hard to buff is overrated and over priced. its just not hard to buff.
==== EDIT: MORE RECIPES ADDED ====
get kiwi edge dressing, replace the foam nib with a better one..
pour kiwi into bowl
get some minwax wood stain, put in about 3-4 teaspoons of that.. (stains good)
put 2-3 fish oil vitamin things in it, or if u dont have fish oil, use 3in1 or other multipurpose oil (stain)
throw in 4 teaspoons of laquer thinner (cant paint over it)
thinken it up by stirring in some wood glue...
pour back into mop
--------------- above stolen from me -----------------
red,black,green,blue biro ink
silvo polisher
rust proof paint
printing ink
black it for iron
and brake fluid
ohh yeah an some shoe polish
----------- above stolen from vegimite on toast --------------------