[InfraRed]

found this photo on flickr a couple of months ago; knew the guy was in town, so I sent him a message but he didn't get back to me




so I finally meet him while I'm painting a free wall, and I wanted to make a trade or two since I have quite a few sherwin krylons already
he said "I'm trying to save them for when they're worth money" or something

when I do find kids with vintage paint, they think because a few cans sold for a lot on eBay they shouldn't trade with me and that's fucked
(not that I want any of those cans that bad, but this other kid has some 68 baby blue paper labels)

[jausi001]

I love the paintings
-------------
Flower Oil Paintings
Landscape Oil Paintings
Modern Oil Paintings
Oil Paintings For Sale

[InfraRed]

This kid wants to trade me his Baby Blue 68 Krylon Paper Label
says he really needs some herb
I don't know if that's a rare can,
and I'm not really jumping on it because I'm accustomed to all my cans being awesome surprises
but if anyone needs this can, get ahold of my asap

[slyle]

Holding cans waiting for values to rise is pretty ridiculous. Thats like all the fools who collected comics and baseball cards in 90's (I being one of them) they were mass produced and marketed to be collectible. Hold onto the paper label 68 baby blues. Hold onto mint SWP flat balls, not missing tops and rusted cans. Those are user cans. If anyone thinks they are gonna get rich off of paint you have another thing coming. They are in it for the wrong reason. Preserve the history of what we do, and make it possible to pass this onto future generations.....

[smizrocks]

Originally Posted by PJAY ONE (View Original Post)

Hey guys & gals. This past weekend, I returned from the US's largest coin-op machine and advertising trade show & collector's show in Saint Charles Il. While there, I meet a few sellers who had/claim to have access to that which we all on this forum seek and desire: Vintage spray paint and it's related items.

Upon my introductions, and presentations of my color post cards, and fold out flyers etc., the respective vendors were all shocked to be in the presence of somebody who actually collected "spray paint". Now these same vendors, all related the story of the mountains of spray paint (the same cans depicted on flyers) which they repeatedly threw away in the past, upon sight.

These same "shocked" vendors, had for sale various paint company related clocks, displays and signage as well as other wares on their respective tables as we spoke. But no actual spray paint, which would've been worth more than the items which they dragged across the US to St. Charles.

Thus, in order to stem the perpetual desecration and destruction of the few sought -after cans which remain undiscovered out there, I had to educate these vendors as to their worth in a collectors society.

While attempting to educate each vendor, there first question almost always is, "how much am I willing to pay for each can"? A fairly easy question to side step, by replying, it depends on the color as well as it's condition. You could name a high price for a nonexistent color, in order to entice them to simply start looking for cans. After all, no person is going to troll through and drag home garbage for a few dollars a can. One must wave the proverbial carrot-on-a-stck before these vendors in order to get them to recalibrate their respective hunting/search habits. Once they call with the details of the lode, it is then which one could negotiate a value for the lot.

However, due to recent behavior by some within our community, it is becoming harder to get a lode at "wholesale prices" anymore.

What? You're saying? Let me explain. During the aforementioned conversations last week, while speaking to a group of interested potential can/sources recruits, a few were conducting searches on ebay in my presence for cans being sold. And lo and behold they come across the active auction of my recently acquired as well as SNIPED Ferguson Gray big face! And what did they see? The same year(s) big faces presently sought-after with it currently bidding up to $115.00 with numerous bids and three days LEFT on the USED item auction. What does that tell a prospective seller? They go Hmmm... I just may have something worth more here. Let me, hold back/out. Screw selling it "wholesale" to this guy before me. I'll take my chances on Ebay.

Which brings me to my final point. People, why would you continue to bid up an item with days left on it? Why not simply click "watch this item" and come back and try to snipe it in the final seconds, like most serious buyers do in the first place? Why continue to throw NUMEROUS as well as INFLATED bids, knowing

1. That's not what the final selling price will be.

2. You're only showing the sellers as well other potential sellers that they have "gold" in their hands

3. People conducting searches will see these inflated prices, due to the time left remaining on the auction.

4. Most bidding don't have a realistic chance of winning an auction of a rare can.

5. Sellers/finders only know what they see, not know what color is what or worth more etc.

Hence, those of you who are working with budget constraints (which most email and state so), need to
rethink/visit your bidding practices on Ebay. For, should you come across your own motherlode. Chances are, that perspective seller will be conducting an Ebay search themselves. And once that happens, chances are your opportunity to get it wholesale will evaporate before you. And you'll have yourself to blame.

^^^^^^^^

This is more or less ridiculous. If the vendors had the wherewithal to check "current" can auctions, then I have to believe they have the ability and knowledge to do a completed listings search for the same cans. Of all people you should be giving yourself the same damn advice since your ebay auctions hype the HELL out of the cans you're selling. Why are you giving out advice on how to bid..? Anyone who knows ebay and who sells for a living, be it lamps, auto parts, movies etc, knows about completed listings search possibilities. Therefor, before I get as long winded as you, I have to respectfully ask that you take your own advice before trying to offer it up to the rest of us. I respect your hunting and desire to find cans, but it's not like you're doing it for just historic preservation reasons, part of your angle is obviously money. Why not start your can auctions at .99 cents.? Starting cans at $50, $150 etc does the same type of damage and catches the same attention for non can collectors/sellers as you're mentioning happens when people bid too early. So, I ask not what I can do for you, but rather what you can stop asking of us. My final word, blahgitty blah.

[InfraRed]

I was wondering why he wasn't considering completed listings, too.

I will tell people whatever I can to get them to hold cans. The people I deal with are busy with antique furniture and more widely collected antiques, etc. Even if I tell them the possibilities of selling collectible cans, half of them will still throw them away.
Nobody gives a fuck except for us.

[Fist 666]

at an estate sale today found 4 cans of 1965 derusto sea foam green paper label, full with matching metal caps, no rust.

i'm not a collector, but they seem like these would be an example of a can thats worth hanging on to?

[slyle]

Yes they are, good find...

[slyle]

This weekends score, all from various "Places"....

[HAL]

Nice haul. I love those Scotch-gard caps.

[jib25]

So I guess the Scotch-gard cans must have used both kinds of caps. This is the first Jifoam style cap I've seen on one, the other 4 or 5 I've seen have had the old school "ridge cap" style fat caps. Then again I always check every style of old household cleaner and have a few no name brands that also used the Jifoam as a stock. Such a treat to pop the cap and find one. Those caps are so comfortable. I'm wondering if that was also a major factor over the standard ridge caps for painting large areas. Anyone remember how much those early German gray banana skinnys (early/mid 90s), used to dig into the edges of your index fingers?

[eviltrailer77]

I remember, but the lack of "freeze finger" that you would get from using phantoms made up for it.

[BIGMETALCIRCUS]

Are those jiff foam caps any good? Thin or fat?

[slyle]

Medium I would say. Nice soft spray with decent edges.

[HAL]

I guess a modern equivalent would be a pink or orange dot euro fat. For the 70's and 80's, that was considerably fatter than a stock tip. I can understand why jifoams were highly regarded.

[slyle]

Pink and orange are fatter with a heavier spray I think. You have used these caps Hal haven't you?

[infamousscribbler]

Came across these today...

[jib25]

^Those probably wouldn't sell too well in the UK, lol.

[jib25]

Bunch of cans posted on Ebay right now:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/jib25/m.html...id=p4340.l2562

[HAL]

Originally Posted by slyle (View Original Post)

Pink and orange are fatter with a heavier spray I think. You have used these caps Hal haven't you?

It's been a couple years, but yeah. As i remember, they felt similar to one of those older orange dot euro fats, the ones with the wide ridges and the lip at the bottom of the cap. Or those blue dot fats with the wide ridges that came on graffiti remover sprays. I always thought those were a lot like orange or pink dot caps.

[jib25]

I can't keep up with caps one bit. I guess I ought to explore them all, but it's too much hassle to remember them all, and then go looking for them. Rusto or NY fat for fats, and either a yellow universal or the 94 skinny/stock for skinnys. Anyone have any favorable preference to any other specific one that's worth trying. Actually hats off to the Boston thin too for making a great cap for Rustos...

[slyle]

I like grey dots on old valve krylon

[infamousscribbler]

I'm a fan of using the beige dots from the montana gold line for fades.

[HAL]

Just me personally, but i basically stick with NY Fats for fills and those clear yellow german caps for linework. If it's big or solid fill, I might use these all black fatcaps the shop in town sells called Beast Fats. They're basically just huge fats like the Astro Fats or gold ones, and empty a can in under 5 minutes. I discovered that they produce the smoothest fades ever when you're in the fill stage, and can cut over all the mess with your outline.


There are so many caps now. I've taken to saving one of each new cap i find, because I expect most to fade away over time. It would be a nice little display for a museum, if there ever were a graffiti museum like the Baseball Hall of Fame. We're at a time where the culture is exploding, and so many products are available that all serve the same purpose. I'll guess that 60% of the products available now will be discontinued in 10 years.

I used to use a lot of grey dots with old valve Krylon. Now, with the euro paint, I want a very crisp line, so i stick with those yellow germans. I was on a kick for a while with cutting down the stem on NY Thins, but sometimes they still don't work right. If i could have a NY Thin diffuser with a stem compatible for european valves, that would be ideal. I like a medium width line, like those grey german caps with the blue center, but none of the available euro caps spray clean enough. Beige dots are great, but only work well with Montana Gold and sometimes Molotow. The altitude up here in Denver really screws with caps and spray pressure, so everything sprays like it's been sitting in the sun up here.

[infamousscribbler]

I enjoyed using the old grey german banana caps on old valve krylon, it made for nice flared hands and crisp lines. I've tried the beige caps on damn near every type of can I've painted with and have had it work wonderfully with Montana, Molotow, Ironlak, Fresh Paint and Beat, sometimes I'd have to fidget with em to get em working on Alien though.
The can killer caps do make for big, consistent fades, but I use the beige guys regularly, maybe I just have a weird fade technique.
^That cap you just posted is very aesthetically pleasing, judging by the rounded edges, it looks like a damn comfortable cap to use.