THE WRITERS FORUM - THE GRAFFITI DESTINATION

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religion
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Post 01-23-2006, 11:30 PM

So... I want to have a serious thread here. Let’s talk stains. With paint. The Ink recipe thread is all about permanent ink, but let’s hear about paint
(spray and bucket) and buff methods specifically. I'd love to hear some buff experiences with any brands of paint.

So to start it off, here’s my experiences.
__________________________________________________ _____________________

1st off >> Obviously painting over shit with roller paint always works, so lets talk sand/solution blast or solvent for buff.
__________________________________________________ ___________________

- Krylon >> Any flat colours leave nice ghosts on plastic and raw metal. Nice ghosts on cement if pressure washed. Otherwise... shits water.

- Painters touch (Rusto) >> Nice coverage on porous surfaces. Brick, wood, rusty metal, unprimed concrete. Good, but not hot, on plastic and really smooth cement. Flat colours obviously top of the game.

- Montana (German) >> Ok. Not so hot for buff marks. Great with a fat cap, but buff is on and off. I think Montana is as good as the buff in your town. Here, it’s not so hot. Occasional stains on raw concrete.

- Belton >> I'd love to hear some bombing feedback on this shit, as I've never used it. Let’s hear your metal and plastic results.

- Generic >> This includes anything under $4. I've actually had some pretty awesome results with the shit brands. I'd probably use this shit all the time if it was more compatible with common caps, unfortunately... I love fat caps, and they are rarely compatible up here.

- Canada Pride (American Accents) >> Cheap brands by rusto. I don’t really fuck with these too much, as I can afford better shit, so let us know.

- Kilz >> I hear this shit is the bomb. But at $7 Canadian a can, I'm skeptical. Let’s hear your reports.

P.S.

I'd love too hear some of the 12 oz. crews comment.
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Default 01-24-2006, 12:44 AM

if they want to buff it theyre going to buff it

it all depends on how good the company is thats doing the washing some half ass it, and others will do a very good job and get rid of it all.

also depends on the colors involved.

the surface( is the surface new? or has it been there for a while?)

i mean you cant just say this will do this and this will do that

*HOWEVER*

kils is pretty good, its not only paint but its a sealant, meaning it will get in the pores and seal them. Whish is perfect for brick and other such surfaces.




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Default 01-24-2006, 12:58 AM

krylon and rusto all sell for under 4 dollars.

Supposedly there is a special black montana that was originally developed for sealing the bottoms of motor vehicles. Its supposed to be really hard to do a good buff job.

But like CA said, its all relative. If you hit some small mom and pop store they are likely to do the cheapest buff possible.
Places with more money may even go as far as repainting the entire wall.

If they are determined to rid there walls of your shit, they will regardless of what kind of shit you used.
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Post 01-25-2006, 09:13 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by beardofzeus@Jan 23 2006, 05:58 PM
krylon and rusto all sell for under 4 dollars.

Supposedly there is a special black montana that was originally developed for sealing the bottoms of motor vehicles. Its supposed to be really hard to do a good buff job.


that would be the bitumenous black, it contains tar




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Default 01-25-2006, 10:41 PM

marsh makes a spray ink. I know nothing about it or getting it. But i would assume that it is good.




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Post 01-26-2006, 04:32 PM

American Accents Canyon Black and Farmhouse Red

are two of the most indelible american paint colors in my experience.
both will leave a 'ghost' when buffed with a blaster
(water blast or sandblast will leave an outline around the edges of your tag. looks real good if you use a fat cap)
sometimes it'll also stain through a paint buff too.

Killz is the thickest white i think.

Montana Nitro is pretty ill for foreign paint with staying power against the buff, but i've heard it fades bad over time. shits like tar, it dries brown. (i think this is what everyone is referring to, it fucking only works with the fat cap that comes on the can and it's like 16oz or however many mLs that is)
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Post 01-26-2006, 04:52 PM

Kilz is only white and its that hot shit, works very nice. also kilz makes and odorless version. also a can that is used for painting ceilings, which seemed pretty cool. i onlky fucked with original kilz, none of the other stuff i mentioned (or kilz bucket paint which i wouldnt mind trying).




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Default 01-27-2006, 03:54 PM

kilz bucket paint is excellent and it can be tinted light colors
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Default 01-29-2006, 05:25 PM

Molotow Coverall (The bitumin stuff)

Usually leaves a "ghost" on most surfaces. Great paint for bombing as it does "Cover all."




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Default 01-29-2006, 06:17 PM

its like...i want to tell you all the secrets, but at the same time, i want to close this. such a moral dilemna.




look, we'll cross the "hesh accidentally shot himself in the ass" bridge when we come to it. no homo
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Default 01-29-2006, 06:34 PM

Just another catch-22 eh?




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Default 02-12-2006, 08:15 PM

in chicago they just paint this shit brown all over your piece so you cant tell if it leaves a stain. some inks i've used leave a slight purple tint of my tag buy its barely recognizable




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Default 02-14-2006, 09:33 PM

Paint is paint. There's nothing in it that will stain. It doesn't matter what you use, really. It'll all get buffed somehow. If you want to get something that will bleed through, find a way to get ink into a spray can, or just use markers. Personally, I don't care if they buff it. I'll just do another.

The only experience I've ever had with a can of spray paint eating through buff is fresh undercoater on concrete. If they buff it right away, as the undercoater (bitumen, coversall, whatever you want to call it) dries and would otherwise fade out if left unbuffed, the buff paint over it starts to peel, and your outline comes through as the paint flakes off. Interesting, but again, I'd rather just do another toss instead of trying to beat the system with materials.
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Default 02-25-2006, 11:22 PM

EVERYTIME I PASS THIS THREAD I THINK IT SAYS SPRAY SPREM.


WHOA, GOT THAT CAPS ON LOCK.




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Post 02-28-2006, 06:30 PM

for all those people who want to put ink in spraypaint just use one of those spray bottles for windex... just a thought




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Default 03-02-2006, 12:22 AM

kilz is super hard to buff, but it also sprays on somewhat dimensional and can get clumpy.
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Default 03-02-2006, 12:22 AM

^^^ "inkie" as in the artist Inkie that did artwork for Jet Set Radio Future?
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Default 03-02-2006, 06:06 PM

Hahaha. Jet Set Radio. GAAAAAAYYYYYYYYY. Now that shit is dance 'n' graff.
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Default 03-03-2006, 08:54 AM

the only time i ever see paint stain is on brick when the people do a shitty job buffing
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Default 04-02-2006, 01:35 PM

the difference between spray paints 'staining' is really gonna be minimal, theres shit you can do to bucket paint to make it stain better, but if u want a proper stain u need ink.




hmmmm
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Post 04-03-2006, 04:23 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by MAR@Jan 25 2006, 06:41 PM
marsh makes a spray ink. I know nothing about it or getting it. But i would assume that it is good.
I dont have the money for this but....Heres the link anyway

If you buy this i want a review.




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Default 04-03-2006, 11:10 PM

Kilz is the best white you can get. Its super thick, super flat and covers just as good as a can of silver Rusto. It is the only paint I know that is thick enough to clog a pink dot.
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Post 04-04-2006, 02:29 AM

Rustoleum
Metallic Enamel Finish Spraypaint

is pretty hard to buff.
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Default Re: Sprayperm. - 04-10-2006, 06:50 PM

i was at walmart the other day and they have KILZ regular spray paint now. its 1.99 a can and has a shitload of colors, i picked up some but i havent used em yet
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Default Re: Sprayperm. - 04-22-2006, 12:59 AM

plastikote fades real quick,

just thought i'd add a bit of my wisdom on the fact that shit paints are shit




hmmmm
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