It’s not at all surprising to see couture fashion, or any tier of fashion, for that matter, draw inspiration and influence from what is happening in popular culture, music, film, or the streets. The more exciting and distinct the character or aesthetic, the more ripe it becomes for appropriation by companies hungry to discover and introduce the next trend. Often times, it’s graffiti that becomes the inspiration, and as evident in some of the heated discussions that crop up on The Writers Forum about it (and even in the comments section of some of my earlier posts), it can be a touchy subject amongst the kids that are actually out in the streets doing it. Admittedly, most of the time when I see clothing companies try and throw some sort of drip, overspray or handstyle on a t-shirt or whatever else, it just makes me cringe. Other times, like when I happen to glimpse the “urban” apparel section of most department stores, the feeling becomes something closer to wanting to puke. That said, it’s still my personal opinion that when done tastefully, a graffiti-esque influence can occasionally look okay, and sometimes it can actually look really great.

Though the appropriation of graffiti’s aesthetic has probably been going on for nearly as long as graffiti has existed, I first took notice of it around 2001 when Louis Vuitton released its “Graffiti” series of bags and accessories. What caught my attention back then was how completely unexpected it was to see such a traditional pattern, suddenly violated by a bunch of bold hand lettering all over the top of it. Until then, Louis Vuitton had always reminded me of the sort of brand affluent old women strutted in. Though the scrawl wasn’t a style I’d recognized from the streets, the premium placement and the visually hostile way it took over was something I could place and relate to.

The story behind Louis Vuitton’s Graffiti bag is really interesting. Marc Jacobs, then and still Creative Director for Louis Vuitton, collaborated with Stephen Sprouse, a fashion designer who was sort of caught up professionally between “has-been” and “never-was”. Sprouse had previous exposure from graffiti simply by way of being a native downtown New Yorker from as early as the 1970’s, graffiti’s formative years. Through his friendship with Debbie Harry (his one-time downstairs neighbor in New York City’s Bowery neighborhood), his fascination and exposure to graffiti, and those doing it, continued through the years. In the late 1980s Sprouse collaborated several times with Keith Haring on his “Signature” line (as well as was granted permission to use Andy Warhol‘s “Camouflage” series of screen-prints as textile designs). Though his own efforts at putting together an apparel line were critically acclaimed, for whatever reason, they never did well and he never enjoyed commercial success. Then, in 2001, Marc Jacobs reached out to him and together they redesigned Louis Vuitton’s long-established monogram pattern. What came out of that collaboration was the “Graffiti” series, an inspired collection of classic Louis Vuitton monogram bags and accessories with a bold layer of sloppy handwritten words overprinted all over it.

I feel it’s pretty clear that Sprouse was drawing inspiration from his own personal experiences and surroundings when he worked with Marc Jacobs to redesign that pattern for Louis Vuitton. Though the naysayers and haters will argue that the “Graffiti” bag didn’t really have any graffiti on it, the soul of what he was expressing in his design came across, and to me at least, felt authentic. That mixture of authenticity and unexpectedness is why I feel it was successful.

Many companies and designers continue trying to appropriate graffiti’s aesthetic. Apparently graffiti, or specifically paint-drips, are a “phenomenon” for Spring 08. Few, if any, have really hit me the way that the Jacobs/Sprouse Louis Vuitton bags did. Though I have to admit, I’m kind of feeling those Sergio Rossi paint pumps. I’ll let you guys make up your minds on the Ikea drip sheet set.

Louis Vuitton Keepall 50

I also thought this Jacobs/Murakami Louis Vuitton camo was really cool (even if sort of off-topic)

Sergio Rossi paint pumps (in green)

Ikea drip sheet set

I’ve been keeping this under wraps for a minute as I worked with Joseph Cartman and his talented crew over at R/GA on this feature for Nike Be True Series. For those of you paying attention to my blog, have probably noticed I do a lot of stuff with Nike personally, as well as professionally through AKA. Between all the great parties at the NikeID studio downtown, last year’s “One Night Only”, and most recently - the Olympic Previews out in Beijing, it’s really tough to nail down the best experience that’s come from working with Nike. Collaborating on the Wet Look Dunks, definitely stands up as one of the best times, and I’m honored that they’d also be chosen as one of the top dunks and featured as part of the Be True Chronicles. Anyhow, here’s a big shout to Gavin Thomas, my co-conspirator out in Portland, as well as all the other great people I’ve had the privilege of working with at Nike and R/GA.

Be sure to check out all the other great chronicles posted including some good friends like Haze and Futura...

AKA Chronicles on nikebetrue.com
AKA Wet Look Micro Site
Original Auction

My apologies for dropping out of sight for a minute. I just got back from a trip out to Beijing and have a ton of stuff to share, but wanted to start off with an exclusive teaser of the Nike Air Max 90 Current until I get settled in again and show you the rest of the gems I’m sitting on.

Many of you may have seen some of the blurry shots posted, as well as noticed the steady buzz building around the internet over the Air Max 90 Current that Nike will be releasing this Fall. A new twist on a Tinker Hatfield classic, the Currents are poised to stoke the flame of adoration for the Air Max 90 for many more years to come. I’m really pleased to be able to present some of the first high-quality studio shots of the Currents, but before I do, I’d like to give the uninitiated a bit of background on them first.

When Tinker Hatfield originally designed the Nike Air Max back in 1987, the driving goal was to create as light, cushioned and functional an athletic sneaker as possible given the technologies and materials of the day. With its clean lines, and Tinker’s innovative decision to go ahead and expose the embedded air pocket that gave the shoe it’s name, the Nike Air Max instantly became a game-changing accomplishment in sports performance footwear. A couple years later in 1990 and still driven by his original goal to create a lighter and more cushioned shoe, Tinker continued to refine the Air Max paving the way for another milestone in high performance athletic footwear found in the Air Max 90. Over the years since then, as the Air Max 90 was released in a vast spectrum of creative colorways and interesting materials, its appeal expanded well beyond the athletes that immediately embraced the 90 to become a favorite amongst the style-conscious set as well. Now, over two decades since its first release, everyone’s enduring love affair with the Air Max 90 would permanently establish its status as a true icon in footwear.

The same year that the Air Max 90 was introduced, Bruce Kilgore (who was also the mastermind behind the Air Force 1) designed the Nike Current, which in turn expanded on materials first found in the Nike Air Flow introduced in 1989. The Flow incorporated a nylon and Lycra stretch fabric into the shoe’s forefoot that reduced the need for bulky materials while providing a comfortable and dynamic fit. Years later, the Presto would further develop this concept and earn accolades as one of the most comfortable athletic shoes ever made.

Fast forward to the present and Jesse Leyva (Global Design Director, Nike Sportswear) and Anthony Hope (Innovation Lead Nike Sportswear) set out to create a new version of the Air Max 90 for Nike Sportswear’s Fall 2008 lineup. While maintaining a sincere respect for the integrity of the original Air Max 90, they starting with the fundamental question, “What if?”. What if Tinker had a material even more cushioning and lighter-weight then the polyurethane and injected rubber that made up the platform of the original Air Max 90? What if Bruce had continued pursuing the comforts and dynamic fit of the mesh upper? What if they both had access to the functionality of Nike Free, serving to give the sneaker a feeling so liberating, that runners have best described it as a feeling akin to running barefoot? What if we go in and systematically attempt to improve every level and component of the original Air Max 90 platform?

Here is Nike’s official answer to all those questions and many more: The Air Max 90 Current. And since I’ve seen little mention anywhere else on when you can expect to get your hands on these, here’s a huge hint… It coincides with another significant event happening in August.

Zune Arts continues to impress, most recently by updating the artists videos on their site with some great new stuff. Whether you want to give props to 72andSunny for having an eye for talent and design or the folks at Zune Arts for having the sophistication to continue doing such cool stuff, either way, be sure to check out this latest addition just in time for Mother’s Day entitled, “Mother Like No Other” by Yves Geleyn.


Links:
“Mother Like No Other” by Yves Geleyn
Zune Arts
72andSunny
Yves Geleyn at Hornet, Inc
Credits

A little while back, I was extended the privilege of being invited with a select group to attend a milestone Big East Basketball game that also played host to one of the largest rivalries in College Basketball. That game, featuring the Syracuse Orangemen versus the Georgetown Hoyas, was a pivotal moment in the Championship for the Big East Conference and was also a keystone event in Nike’s Be True campaign.

BE TRUE is part of Nike’s recognition of the 22 year heritage of the Dunk. Though few people would challenge the Dunk’s dominance as an icon of style on the street, the DNA of the Dunk can be found within the sport of Basketball. Well before the Dunk established its dominance within popular culture, it proved itself on the court. Being True is the essence that defines the Dunk and BE TRUE is both its celebration and the celebration of the culture that has embraced it. That afternoon back in February up at Syracuse University’s Carrier Dome, our small group got the chance to witness first hand the TRUE fans of Syracuse and Georgetown. Over 31,000 fans we’re in attendance that day, and all were brought together to share in the sport of Basketball.

Since then, I’ve been invited to attend, as well as participate in, other BE TRUE events, and throughout the rest of 2008 I’ll periodically share with everybody previews of exclusive products released by Nike as part of their BE TRUE campaign, as well as specific documentation of Nike’s message of what BEING TRUE means.

That said, I’m really honored to be the first to introduce the Rivalry Dunks…

The story behind them involves Nike going back to the roots of the Dunk and their origins in Basketball, as well as Nike’s foundation in collegiate sport. The Rivalry Dunks pay homage to the TRUE fans at three particularly noteworthy colleges. Each of these colleges have fans that have distinguished themselves by camping out in the dead of winter, queuing up in line for days at a time and essentially bleeding their team colors. Nike set out to recognize the passion for sport, and the rivalries that drive it, by working with a lucky group of the most hardcore fans, the teams and the Athletic Departments of each of these three colleges to create a custom Dunk in their honor. This was followed up by a ceremonial dinner and special festivities for those involved, culminating in a pair of the (exceptionally limited) Dunks given to a select group of very fortunate individuals at each function with the rest of the invited guests cheering them on.

The three teams are the Syracuse University Orangemen, The North Carolina Tar Heels, and the Georgetown Hoyas, and these are their Dunks…

I’m also especially grateful to the powers that be over at Swoosh Headquarters, who felt that I deserved my own pair of Orangemen Dunks (Especially when they’ve been listing on Ebay for thousands of dollars per pair). Many thanks…

Yesterday afternoon I rolled out to the Burton preview with Jeff Carvalho of Weekly Drop. Burton and company are in the midst of showcasing their next deliveries, which includes amazing product like some outerwear designed by Chuck Anderson and another great collection by Idiom, as well as some cool stuff from Habitat and Alien Workshop. After checking out lots of stuff we (unfortunately) won’t be able to get our hands on for a while longer, Tim Brodhagen extended a very gracious invite to roll up to the Bronx to check out the Yankees play the Red Sox at (the soon to be retired) Yankee Stadium. Granted the rivalry between these two teams is the stuff of legend, not much would have prepared me for the chaos I witnessed last night at Yankee Stadium. Maybe I haven’t been going to enough sporting events lately, but with the Yankees and the Red Sox still pretty much neck and neck during the 7th inning, there were consistent pockets of people all around us in various stages of being ejected from the stadium and/or arrested. Literally dozens of people being cuffed and escorted away, with random brawls breaking out between innings at the concession stand and bathrooms. Though some would blame alcohol for all the anarchy, at $8.50 for a can of Coors Light, I’m going to have to have to lay blame on thousands upon thousands of over zealous fans and the mob mentality that seemed to be possessing a huge grip of them. Though just before the 8th, Jeff, Tim and I came close to getting into a brawl with some belligerent Red Sox fans (and one of their drunk girlfriends), it was a really fun time and I enjoyed nearly every minute of it.

And the Yankees won!

I was out in Portland, Oregon recently (for some stuff I’ll be talking about a little later), and managed to squeeze in a day’s worth of snowboarding on Mount Hood. I rolled out there with a small, but distinguished crew from Nike and it was both unanimously and unequivocally agreed to be an epic day on the mountain for each of us. Many locals said it was probably the best snow fall most had seen in their lifetime of hitting the slopes there. There were several nights in a row of respectable snow fall, and the night before we showed up, Mount Hood saw around two feet worth of fresh powder. Though I haven’t been fortunate enough to find the time and opportunity to go as often as I’d have liked, this was actually my first trip of the season. As such, my good friend Gavin decided that the best way to celebrate this fact would be to make sure we began by jumping off the lip of a double black diamond that looked to me more like the very edge of the world. It was so high and so steep, I could barely make out where the clouds dissipated and the snowy transition began. A few runs later I was (almost) able to follow Gavin, Julien and Christian on expert runs that mostly comprised of weaving between frozen pine trees. There were definitely some amazing runs we shared that day including one particular run where I finally ignored my inhibition towards death on the mountain side, and decided to just let gravity do it’s thing and pull me down a near vertical snow wall at what felt like terminal velocity. Anyhow, I think it’s safe to say we gave all we had (and then some) and once people’s knees started buckling with fatigue while simply standing in place, we all decided it was time to call it a day.

Extra thanks to Gavin for getting us up the mountain quickly and in style (and for the expert binding help), and to Julien and Christian for the good times and warm hospitality. Hopefully we’ll be able to do it again sometime. Also, I’d be remiss if I didn’t at least mention the huckleberry milkshakes these guys turned me onto on the way back down the mountain. Though it took sincere effort to find the strength to get out of the car and waddle on rubbery legs into the Huckleberry Inn, there’s few things in this world as tasty as the huckleberry milkshakes they serve.

There seems to be a lot of news floating around the blogosphere about the Being True Show. Curated by Emma Reeves and Aaron Rose and being officially supported by Nike, the show features 22 photographers with a particular penchant and talent for capturing the essence and variety of today’s American Youth. Sometimes Joyful, often poignant, but always compelling the show features a single contribution from Tim Barber, Angela Boatwright, Kenneth Cappello, Poppy De Villeneuve, Cheryl Dunn, Naomi Harris, Alex Hoerner, Drew Jarrett, Alain Levitt, Jeaneen Lund, Ari Marcopoulos, Dan Murphy, Jason Nocito, Patrick O’Dell, Mike Piscitelli, David Ransone, Terry Richardson, Jamel Shabazz, David Perez Shadi, Brent Stewart, Ed Templeton, and Tobin Yelland. Anyhow, in addition to the all star cast being showcased in the Being True exhibit, there was also a pretty impressive turnout… Lance Armstrong, Haze, Kaws, Todd James (Reas), Carlo McCormick, Jamie O’Shea, Peter Sutherland, Dante Ross, Dan Funderburgh, were just a few amongst those that came out to the opening.

Anyhow, below are shots from the opening in Brooklyn at the Journal Gallery, but the Los Angeles leg of the tour is opening tonight. It was way too crowded to get shots of the work, so If you’re in the area of the next stop, definitely swing by and check it out first hand…

BEING TRUE - 22 years of American Youth
April 3rd - April 27th, 2008

Opening Reception: Thursday, April 3rd
144 LAB
144 North La Brea Avenue
Los Angeles, CA 90036

Photos courtesy of Kathy Lo, the Journal Gallery.

Just a heads up that the main RSS Feed that aggregates all the various blogs on the site has been fixed. So any of you into RSS, should jump on this feed... http://www.12ozprophet.com/index.php/content/feed.xml

Today I decided to duck out on work and instead grabbed the family and my man Randy Wells and took the L train crosstown to 14th and 6th Ave, and then hopped onto the PATH train to Hoboken, New Jersey with the sole purpose of making our first pilgrimage to Fiore’s Deli for 2008. There’s no doubt that Brooklyn, Little Italy and the West Village each have their own fair share of authentic old-fashioned Italian deli’s, but few can compete with Fiore’s out in Hoboken. Established in 1913, and maintained as the same family owned neighborhood deli it was founded as, Fiore’s built it’s reputation by thoroughly satisfying the local cravings for quality deli foods and great customer service. Back when it first opened it’s doors, Fiore’s met the lunch time needs of the local Italian immigrant population that dominated Hoboken between World War I and World War II. Though the landscape and populace of Hoboken has changed significantly in the 95 years since Fiore’s first opened it’s doors, the deli itself remains fully intact and original, and stepping through it’s doors also feels like you’re stepping back through time. Once frequented regularly by local legend, Frank Sinatra, it’s said that he often had Fiore’s ship braids of mozzarella to his stops while on tour. It’s tough to nail down the best part of Fiore’s, but the mozzarella made fresh daily by the crew of old school Italian-American men behind the counter certainly tops the lists of most people that have been to Fiore’s first hand. In fact, during the weekly lunch time rush, it’s said that locals seem fine with accepting tickets for double parking in exchange for the opportunity to wait in line and snatch up one of Fiore’s renowned mozzarella sandwiches. I’ve also been told the Roast Beef they make rivals their cheese for best eats, but to be honest I’ve never had the opportunity to try it out because I’m too busy stuffing my face with the mozzarella. Anyhow, if you’re ever near Hoboken, definitely stop by and ask John or one of the other fellas behind the counter for a ‘knot of Mozz’... You most definitely will not be disappointed.

Fiore’s Deli
414 Adams St
Hoboken, NJ 07030
(201) 659-1655
www.fioresdeli.com

Anyone following my blog has probably caught on to a recurring theme of hot photography of hot women. Whether it’s Jamil GS, Terry Richardson (or admittedly, even some of the more voluptious illustrations of Todd James), it’s hard to not appreciate the form of the fairer sex. Gratuitous or not, I now introduce the Photography of Bruno Bisang. Enjoy…